{Changing gears a little from the last post} This fall I am teaching an alternative digital imaging class at Francis Marion University and I am super excited because I am all about alternative processes, whether it be digital or analog or digalogue or tradigital or whatever you want to call it. One of the processes the students will be doing is the cyanotype process using digital negatives. I have been doing test prints for a while now so that I can get use to the new (or new to me} facility at FMU. I am using the “New Cyanoptye” kit or the Mike Ware formula. I have used the old start from scratch with chemicals recipe from the Christopher James Book of Alternative Processes as well as the regular or classic Photographer’s Formulary Cyanotype Kit. Changing formula’s means new adjustments. I started with the Dan Burkholder template for digital negatives (from the disc that came with the book) to give myself a starting point. After an initial print I realized that I needed more contrast in the negative. I used a combination of curves I found on PPMAG and Dan Burkholder’s curve.
I had an print that was too dark, so I decided to experiment with toning. First, I used a little hydrogen peroxide from some added blue magic. Then in a tray with fresh water I added some borax (about 5 tablespoons to an 11x14sh tray with water filled about half-way). It didn’t turn as purple as I remember it did with the old formula. The borax bleached the print out a little, which is why it was good that I started with a print that was a little too dark. After the borax bath, I let the print sit in a strong coffee bath for about 2 hours. I had to baby sit it though. I rotated it about every 15 minutes or so.
I made this image using a Canon 5D Mark II with a 100mm macro lens at the Austin, Texas Botanical Gardens.
Cyanotype Toned with Borax and Coffee:
This isn’t the same print before toning, but I’m showing it so you can see what it resembled before toning…a little dark.
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